Different Types of Bras: 37 Cuts, Shapes, and Styles

12372836764_297a05ee60_z

When you walk into the lingerie section of the department store, you’re confronted with tons of bra types, bra designs, and bra styles. Balconette! Bandeau! Plunge! Push-up! There are so many different types of bras that it can be overwhelming.

In this guide, we’ll tell you everything you need to know about all the different types of bras out there. First, we’ll go over the different parts of a bra, so you can better understand the differences between different types of bras. Then we’ll go over bra types for everyday wear and bra types for special occasions and special circumstances. Finally we’ll discuss how to choose a bra for a given day or activity. Soon you’ll be a lingerie wizard!

Feature image: Franco Pecchio/Flickr

 

Parts of a Bra

To understand the meaningful differences between different types of bra, you need to understand how bras are generally constructed. These are the main parts of most bra styles.

 

Front of Bra

diagram front
Original image: Ralf Roletschek/Wikimedia

Strap: The straps go over the shoulder and help keep the bra in place.

Cup: The cups are the part of the bra that hold the breasts.

Band: The band is made up of all of the parts of the bra that wrap around the body below and next to the cups. It’s what provides most of the support in the bra. Full-banded bras have part of the band underneath the cup, while partial-band bras only have a gore and wings, with no part of the band directly underneath the cup.

Wing: The wing is the part of the bra that comes out from the side of the cup to wrap around the side and back of the torso. The two wings comprise most of the band.

Gore: The gore is the fabric in between the cups.

Underwire: Some bras have underwires for additional support and shaping. These are wires encased in fabric that run along the bottom edge of the cup.

 

Back of Bra

back diagram

Hook and eye: The back of the bra usually has the hook and eye mechanism that fastens the bra (only partially fastened in this picture). Some bras (like many sports bras) don’t have a hook and eye and just pull over the head. Some also fasten in front, either with a hook and eye or with a clasp mechanism.

 

Bra Types for Everyday Wear

In this section, we’ll go over bra types that are typically worn with everyday clothes and/or for everyday activities.

 

Light Support

These bras offer only a little bit of support.

 

Bandeau Bra

1024px-Female_Tourist_in_Kenya,_August_2012
Bandeaus have also become a popular swimsuit top option. (Luca Boldrini/Wikimedia)

Underwire: No

The bandeau bra is essentially just an elasticized tube of fabric worn across the breasts. Sometimes there’s ruching in the center to offer some shape. Sometimes there’s boning at the sides or even silicone trim to help hold the bra up. A few will even have soft cups inside, although this isn’t the norm. They come in lots of fun colors and prints and are usually designed to be seen.

Best for: A bandeau bra doesn’t offer a lot of support, so this will work the best on smaller-busted ladies. In terms of wardrobe, a cute printed or lace bandeau looks great with casual dresses and tops that expose the back, sides, or front of the bra.

 

Bralette

midsummer-1482835_1920

Also called: Bralet

Underwire: No

The bralette has taken the lingerie world by a storm! But what is a bralette? This bra type is unstructured in the cups and unwired. It’s usually made out of soft, stretchy fabrics. Sometimes the band is even totally elastic, with no hook-and-eye closure.

Best for: Because they don’t offer a whole lot of support, these bras are usually best for leisure. However, some women like the unstructured comfort of the bralette, and the natural shape it gives. So these women wear them out for low-impact activities like running errands. Some bralettes are even longline, which means the band is several inches wide. In this case, women even wear them as casual tops, especially in the summer. Many bralettes are designed to be seen and so are also often worn under sheer or backless tops. Be careful in cold weather, though—since these bras are usually totally unlined, they don’t offer a whole lot in the way of nipple concealment!

If you need a little more support, look for bralettes with more seaming and shaping, which will help contain and support. Even the most supportive bralette, though, probably isn’t super-practical for anyone who is more than medium-endowed.

 

Built-In Bra

built in pixabay
Athletic tops like this one often have built-in bras.

Also called: Shelf bra

Underwire: Usually no

Built-in bras are often found in camis and workout gear. They usually have a band of elastic around the underbust to offer support and a fabric shelf. Sometimes, but not always, they also offer cups for extra shaping and support. A few built-in bras even have underwires! Note that the built-in bra is very different from the true shelf bra, described in the special occasion section.

Best for: Built-in bras can offer a lot of convenience in casual, everyday clothes. This is especially true in hot weather, when wearing a shirt and a bra can cause unnecessary heat from multiple layers. Additionally, built-in bras in workout gear can sometimes offer all the support you need for low-impact athletic activities, like yoga.

Another advantage to built-in bras is that you don’t need to worry about bra straps or cups being exposed. If you can find a camisole or tank top with a sufficiently supportive built-in bra, it can make a great layering piece in a professional wardrobe.

 

Leisure Bra

leisurebra
Harry Victor/Wikimedia

Also called: Sleep bra

Underwire: No

The leisure or sleep bra is a lot like the bralette, and in fact, there’s some overlap between the categories. However, dedicated leisure and sleep bras tend to be a little more focused on utilitarian comfort than on cutesy details. These soft, wireless bras are designed to offer a little bit of support while sleeping or lounging.

Best for: These bras are really designed for leisure, as their name implies. Many larger-breasted women wear leisure or sleep bras when they sleep to help contain breasts at night.

 

Training Bra

Underwire: No

The training bra is a soft-cup, wirefree bra specifically designed for preteen and adolescent girls who are just starting to develop breasts, but don’t yet need the support of a traditional bra.

Best for: These are best for young girls and women who are just starting to develop breasts and don’t need a whole lot of support.

 

Medium Support: Different Cuts

The bra cuts in this section offer support to most breast sizes for everyday activities. Because there are so many medium-support options, this section will focus on bra types that are defined by the way the bra is cut and designed, and the next section will focus on medium-support options defined by different padding and shaping levels.

 

Balconette Bra

balconette
Lies through a Lens/Wikimedia

Also called: Balcony bra

Underwire: Yes

Balconette is a French-sounding word that isn’t actually French. But what is a balconette bra? A balconette bra offers minimal coverage and a lot of lift. The wires tend to come up a bit further in the center than a plunge or demi bra, allowing for the cup to be cut straighter across the top. This allows for wide, low necklines to be worn without exposing the bra. Most balconette bras barely cover the nipples. Many have vertical seaming in the cups, which offers additional support and lift. Some have padding in the bottom of the cup, while others are lightly lined or unlined.

Best for: Because balconette cups are fairly shallow, balconette bras are good for shallow-breasted women. Because cups are often close together, they can also be a good choice for women with close-set breasts. Wardrobe-wise, they go well under wide, low necklines like scoop or square-neck tops.

 

Demi Bra

demi
The Lingerie Addict/Flickr

Also called: Half-cup bra

Underwire: Yes

A demi bra is a shallow-cut bra that comes low, just covering the nipples. It exposes most of the top of the breast. It gives good cleavage and a lot of uplift.

Best for: A demi bra is good for low-cut tops. In terms of breast shape, it’s a good cut for shallower-breasted women, as they won’t need to fill the top of a higher-coverage cup.

 

Front-Closing Bra

Also called: Front-clasp bra

Underwire: Depends on bra

A front-closing bra is any bra that closes in the front instead of the back. These bras are often racerback bras, but they come in many different cuts and styles.

Best for: These can be a good option for wide-set breasts, as gore is often a little wider to accommodate the front-closure. Also a good choice if you consistently have trouble fastening your bra in the back.

 

Longline Bra

longline
Lies Through a Lens/Wikimedia

Also called: Bustier

Underwire: Depends on bra

Longline bras are bras that have extra-wide bands (think 2+ inches). The extra-wide band offers more support than the typical band.

Longline bras can be quite structured, with underwires or even boning in the front or side seams. Boning is rigid plastic encased in fabric along garment seams. These offer extra structure and lend further support to the bust. Some underwired longline bras are also called bustiers, especially if they offer a shaping quality.

However, other longline bras have no wires and offer a more natural fit and less support. There are even longline bralettes!

Best for: The best occasion for a longline bra depends quite a bit on the bra itself. You might want to wear a more structured or shaping longline bra for a special occasion, while a less structured option is good for everyday. If the bra has a cute pattern, you might even wear it out as a top in the summer or under a sheer blouse.

 

Plunge Bra

Plunge
Gabriel S. Delgado C/Wikimedia

Underwire: Yes

A plunge bra has cups that cut diagonally across the breast, with a low gore so that cups can plunge extra low. These bras are often cleavage-enhancing.

Best for: Plunge bras are designed to be worn with low-cut tops. In terms of breast shape, a padded plunge bra is a great choice for shallow-breasted women as there is less cup to fill up top. Plunge bras are also a good choice for women with close-set breasts, as the gores are usually on the narrow side.

 

Racerback Bra

racerback
Not a bra, but this is what a racerback looks like. (Juanedc/Wikimedia)

Also called: T-back bra

Underwire: Depends on bra

Most bras have two straps that go straight over the shoulders. However, the two straps of a racerback bra join in the middle in a T shape or come in close together at the back in a V shape. Racerback styles offer a little additional support than over-the-shoulder styles. Racerback bras often clasp in the front. Sports bras are also often racerback.

Best for: Racerback bras are best under racerback-cut tops and dresses. They can also work well for women with narrow shoulders who find that typical straps often slip down. Front-closing racerbacks are good for women with wide-set breasts as the gores are usually wider.

 

Medium Support: Different Padding and Shaping Levels

This section focuses on bras that are primarily defined by the way the bra is padded or how it shapes the breasts.

 

Contour Cup Bra

contour
Roselyn Rosesline/Flickr

Also called: Molded-cup bra, contour bra

Underwire: Usually yes

Contour cup bras are formed by machine or against a mold out of a uniform layer of foam covered in fabric to hold their shape. They offer a lot of shaping and coverage, and give the breasts a boost without too much added padding. The cups are usually seamless, but not always. They come in several different cuts and styles. T-shirt bras are a common type of contour bra.

Best for: Best for women who would like a lot of shaping, and uplift without a lot of padding. Also good for women with slightly asymmetrical breasts, as the shaping makes them appear symmetrical under clothes.

 

Lightly Lined Bra

lightlylined
The Lingerie Addict/Flickr

Underwire: Depends on bra

The lightly lined type of bra has very little padding or fabric lining the cup; often just a thin layer. This lends a more natural shape to the breast. You can still obtain a decent amount of support with underwired versions. Lightly lined bras come in many cuts, including balconette, demi, bralette, wire-free, and plunge versions.

Best for: Best for days when you are looking to present a more natural bust line but want more support than you can get from a bralette. Lightly lined bras generally won’t offer as much support as bras where the cups have more body, so if you are particularly well-endowed or might be engaging in any impact activity, this may not be the best choice for you.

This is another bra type that doesn’t offer great nipple coverage, either, so you may want to avoid it under sheer or thin tops—especially on chilly days!

 

Padded Bra

padded
The Lingerie Addict/Flickr

Underwire: Yes

Padded bras have thicker foam or fiberfill in the base of the cup to give the appearance of increased breast size. They come in many cuts and styles, including demi, balconette, plunge, etc. This bra types does not have quite the cleavage-enhancing power of a push-up bra.

Best for: If you want to give a little oomph to your silhouette, but don’t necessarily need the huge boost in cleavage you’d get from a push-up bra. Padded bras can also give a little extra shaping to shallow, conical, or asymmetrical breasts

 

Push-Up Bra

push-up
Lies Through a Lens/Wikimedia

Underwire: Yes

Push-up bras are designed to give maximum cleavage. This is accomplished by angled cups and serious padding that push the breasts together and up. Many brands boast that their push-up bras give the appearance of increased cup size. They are usually a demi or plunge cut.

Best for: These are best for any woman who wants to enhance cleavage. This will usually be women with smaller or wider-set breasts.

 

T-shirt Bra

tshirt
Amy Clarke/Flickr

Underwire: Usually yes.

A t-shirt bra is a specific kind of contour bra designed to create a smooth line under t-shirts and other clingy garments. The cups are generally seamless and the bra won’t have any raised trims, hooks, etc. There’s generally enough padding for some light shaping and nipple concealment, but not much beyond that. It’s a solid, everyday bra type.

Best for: T-shirt bras are good under clingy fabrics. As they come in different cuts, they can flatter a variety of bust shapes.

 

Unlined Bra

unlined
The Lingerie Addict/Flickr

Underwire: Depends on bra

Unlined bras have no foam or padding in the cups. The cups are just a thin layer of fabric—often lace or sheer. Bralettes are a type of unlined bra, but there are also underwired unlined bras. They offer a very natural-looking silhouette with very little shaping and little to no nipple concealment.

Best for: If you are looking for a natural look with only a little shaping, an unlined bra is a good option. It may not be the best choice for clingy tops.

 

Underwire-Free Bra

softcup
Harry Victor/Wikimedia

Also called: Wireless bra, soft-cup bra

Underwire: No

Underwire-free bras are bras designed to support the bust without underwire. They used to be considered far less supportive than underwired bras, but with more advanced construction features they now rival the support offered by underwire bras.

Best for: Wireless bras are a great choice for people with sensitive skin, or who find underwires uncomfortable.

 

High Support

These bras offer the highest support of the everyday types of bras.

 

Cut & Sew Bra

cut and sew
The Lingerie Addict/Flickr

Also called: Seamed bras, Multi-part cups

Underwire: Usually yes

A cut and sew bra has cups made of multiple pieces of fabric, seamed together. The additional seams offer extra support and shaping. Different seaming patterns offer different effects:

  • Horizontal seams: horizontal seams give a somewhat conical projection to the cup
  • Vertical seams: vertical seams are common in balconette bras and offer lots of extra support and lift.
  • Diagonal seams: diagonal seams across the cup help to center, support, and lift the breasts.
  • Transversal seams: A transversal seam is arched over the surface of the cup in a curved pattern. It makes the breasts appear more rounded in addition to giving support.

Best for: Seamed cups are great if you are looking for more shaping and support. However, they won’t be nearly as invisible under clingy or thin fabrics as a seamless cup.

 

Full Coverage Bra

full cup
Harry Victor/Wikimedia

Also called: Full support bra, full cup bra

Underwire: Yes

A full coverage or full-support bra has deep cups that cover most of the breast, including the upper breast. This provides additional support. They usually also have wide, supportive straps for additional comfort. Sports bras typically have a full-cup design.

Best for: This is best for women with large or full breasts who need extra support. Women with shallow breasts won’t fill out the top of the cup, so this isn’t the best option for them.

 

Minimizer Bra

Underwire: Yes

A minimizer bra is designed to minimize the appearance and projection of larger breasts. This is accomplished by compressing the tissue through stretchy fabrics and redistributing breast tissue to the tops and sides of the breast. This bra type typically also has wide straps.

Best for: This is best for larger-breasted women who would like to reduce breast projection—perhaps for the purposes of reducing gapping in button-down shirts, for example.

 

Sports Bra

sportsbra
Glenn Francis/Wikimedia

Also called: Jog bra, jogging bra

Underwire: Usually no

A sports bra is designed to be worn during athletic activity. There are different types of sports bras, offering different levels of support for different activities. Some are for low-impact activities like yoga, while others are designed for high-impact activities like jogging or boxing. They are generally made of stretchy material and designed to reduce bounce, both up and down. Most have moisture-wicking properties. They usually don’t have underwires, but some do, particularly high-support bras meant for larger busts.

Best for: Best for engaging in athletic activity!

 

Bra Types for Special Activities and Occasions

The bras in this section are designed for specialty activities, circumstances, and occasions. You’ll find special bras for revealing and low-cut tops as well as bras for various medical needs in this section.

 

Light Support

These specialty bras offer only light support.

 

Pasties

24411320996_155abcc4bd_z
Pasties are also outerwear at the Mermaid Parade. (Ajax Great/Flickr)

Also called: Petals, nipple covers

Underwire: No

Pasties aren’t really a bra type. They are sticky pads, usually flesh-colored, that go over the nipples to prevent them from showing through sheer or revealing garments that won’t accommodate a bra. They offer no support, just modesty.

Best for: Best for keeping nipples covered under backless or otherwise revealing clothes. Works best for small breasts.

 

Shelf Bra

shelf bra
Mouna75/Wikimedia

Also called: Quarter-cup bra, cupless bra, open-cup bra

Underwire: Yes

We’ve already mentioned that while the term “shelf bra” is often used to refer to built-in bras, this isn’t correct. Some people also call balconette bras shelf bras, which is also wrong. So what is a shelf bra? Well, a true “shelf bra” actually has a very minimal cup which exposes the nipple. Pretty much all support comes from the band.

Best for: As you might suppose, the shelf bra is not really worn out and about and is primarily for amorous activities.

 

Stick-On Bra

lossy-page1-568px-Adhesive_patent3.tif
Adhesive bra patent, by Tara J Valentin.

Also called: Backless bra, adhesive bra, silicone bra

Underwire: No

A stick-on bra adheres to the front side of the body through some adhesive mechanism, leaving the back bare. Some adhere to the sides of the body, while others only stick to the breasts. There are disposal paper versions and reusable silicone versions.

Best for: These bras are specifically for use with backless dresses. They provide a little more support than pasties, but women who are very well endowed may not have much success with them. Additionally, they tend to detach if you get too sweaty!

 

Medium Support

These specialty bras offer a medium amount of support.

 

Convertible Bra

Also called: Multiway bra

Underwire: Yes

A convertible bra is one that can be configured in several different strap configurations. This is accomplished through removable straps that can hook into different loops sewn into the inside of the bra cup and band. Convertible bras can usually be made to be strapless, halter, one-shoulder, and cross-back at the very least. Some also have a low-back option; in this case, it may not be able to also be strapless. It’s standard for a convertible bra to have at least four loops, but some have even more—think 8+!

Cups are usually fairly shallow, often in a demi or balconette style, to facilitate many different strap configurations.

Best for: If you own a lot of one-shoulder garments or garments with weird strap configurations, investing in a convertible bra can be worth it.

 

Low-Back Bra

Green_Deep_V-neck_Backless_Halter_Dress_-_Backside
The sort of dress you might need a low-back bra for. (Jamie/Wikimedia)

Also called: Convertible bra

Underwire: Yes

A low-back bra is designed to work with things that are low-cut in the back. They are typically a kind of convertible bra. There are two main kinds of low-back bras. One kind has an extra strap that hooks in at the bottom of the bra and stretches around the abdomen to pull the bottom of the bra lower. The other kind has a strap that hooks into the bra’s hook and eye fasteners and makes the back of the bra cross over and come around low on the abdomen.

Of course, because most of the support from a bra comes from the band, pulling the band low in the back or crossing it over will cause the bra to be much less supportive. However, the bra will still suffice for the purposes of some shaping and nipple coverage.

Best for: These are best for dresses or tops that are low-cut in the back. If you are wearing a low-back halter, make sure the bra allows for a halter strap configuration!

 

Strapless Bra

Strapless_bra
By Tommas Gunnarsson.

Underwire: Usually yes

Strapless bras are designed to support the bust without shoulder straps. They usually have wider bands and higher underwires, although they do make strapless bras without underwires. Some have a silicone strip lining the edge of the bra to help it grip the body and stay up.

Best for: Strapless bras tends to be pretty uncomfortable for everyday wear, but can be necessary with strapless dresses and tops. Particularly busty ladies may want to consider a longline strapless bra or bustier, which will provide more support.

 

U-Plunge Bra

Also called: Deep plunge bra

Underwire: Yes

A U-plunge bra is designed to be worn with the lowest-cut tops and dresses. The cups are shallow and the gore actually extends a couple inches below the breasts in a U-shape. Short underwires and side boning provide support. These bras offer more support than pasties or stick-on cups, but not nearly as much as a conventional bra.

Best for: Very low-cut tops and dresses.

 

Water Bra

underwear-beauty-model-western-model-offered
This could definitely be the work of a water bra.

Also called: Gel bra, liquid bra

Underwire: Yes

A water or gel bra has removable inserts with a water/oil combination or silicone gel. It is designed to seriously enhance the bust, to the tune of multiple cup sizes.

Best for: If you’re trying to really enhance your bust size, this is the way to go.

 

High Support

These special-occasion bras types offer lots of support.

 

Bridal Corset

bridal
The Lingerie Addict/Flickr

Also called: Bridal bra, bridal shapewear, bridal bustier

Underwire: Depends on bra

Especially because so many wedding dresses today are strapless or have very thin straps, many women want to wear a bridal corset or bustier for extra shaping and support. However, a true corset won’t necessarily lie smoothly under a wedding dress, and they often compress the bust. What usually works best under a wedding gown is a shapewear bodice or bustier that is smooth and free of embellishments. This will create a smooth line under the dress, cinch and smooth the body, and offer support to the bust.

Best for: The bride! You may also wear shapewear for other special occasions.

 

Medical, Clinical, and Other Special Bras

This bras are designed for particular medical or clinical needs.

 

Mastectomy Bra

Also called: Post-mastectomy bra

Underwire: Depends on bra

This bra is designed to hold a breast prosthesis or has a built-in breast prosthesis on one or both sides of the bra. These are usually full-cup bras and they usually have a pocket that holds the prosthesis.

Best for: Women who have undergone mastectomies.

 

Maternity Bra

pregnancy-1158286_1920

Also called: Nursing bra

Underwire: Depends on bra

Although the terms “maternity bra” and “nursing bra” are often used interchangeably, they actually describe two different things. A maternity bra is designed for comfort during pregnancy. As such, it has full, seamless, soft cups and wide straps for extra support. It is made of comfortable fabrics to prevent chafing or irritation. Some maternity bras are also designed to expand in the cups so that you can continue to easily wear them throughout your pregnancy, as your cup size increases.

Additionally, some bras have the features of a maternity and a nursing bra (see below) and can be used for both purposes.

Best for: Best for women who are pregnant.

 

Nursing Bra

nursing
Daniel Lobo/Wikimedia

Also called: Maternity bra

Underwire: No

Again, while “maternity bra” and “nursing bra” are often used interchangeably, they describe two different bra types. Like maternity bras, nursing bras are stretchy and have soft, seamless cups for comfort and to accommodate expanding breasts. However, a dedicated nursing bra will also allow the cups to be easily undone for nursing without bra removal, usually through a clip system. Make sure the clips are easy to undo, even with one hand!

Best for: Best for women who are nursing.

 

Post-Surgery Bra

Also called: Post-surgical bra, post-operative bra, surgical bra, recovery bra

Underwire: No

A post-surgery bra provides compression and support after any surgical procedures in the breast area. These bras are made of comfortable fabric and are designed so that they won’t chafe any part of the breast. Most are front-fastening. However, some surgeons allow women to wear lightly supportive sports bras post-procedure instead.

Best for: Women who have recently had breast augmentation, breast reduction, lumpectomy, etc.

 

Posture Bra

Also called: Posture support bra

Underwire: Usually no

A posture bra is designed to provide extra support for women with large breasts, which relieves back, shoulder, and neck pain and hopefully also allows for better posture. Posture bras generally close in front with high gores, have very separated, full-coverage cups, have a wide, supportive band, and a criss-cross, racerback support structure high on the back to distribute the weight of the breasts across the back. They are also typically underwire-free, though not always.

Best for: Women with large breasts who feel back, shoulder, or neck pain should consider a posture bra.

 

How To Choose a Bra

So with all of these bra type options, how do you pick one for a given day or occasion? There are four main things to consider: fit, breast shape, coverage, and activity! For everyday wear, fit and breast shape are the most important. For special occasions, you may shift the balance of your decision more towards coverage and activity.

 

7129918889_21bc4527f0_o
Not part of the criteria: whether or not there’s a matching panty. (The Lingerie Addict/Flickr)

 

Bra Fit

The first and most important consideration is how the bra fits. Don’t invest in a bra if the fit is poor!

But what makes for a good bra fit? Here are six key indicators of good bra fit:

#1: Most Support Comes From the Band

Most of the support in a well-fitting bra comes from the band, not the cups or straps. The bra should feel pretty supportive even when you pull the straps down off your shoulders.

#2: Adjusted Straps Don’t Slip Down

That said, the straps shouldn’t slip down your shoulders on their own! If they do, the first thing to do is to make sure the straps are adjusted properly. They should be tight enough to stay up on your shoulders but not so tight that they dig into your flesh. If you find that after sufficiently tightening your straps they still slip down, it could be a sign that your band is too loose. This is because the band is riding up in the back, causing the straps to move up, become looser, and slip down.

Those with narrower shoulders should make sure their bra straps are not set too wide apart on the bra, or the straps may slip down regardless of how the bra fits. You can also consider wearing racerback bras if you have this issue.

#3: Band Makes Straight Line Across Back

The band of the bra should make a straight line across your back—it shouldn’t ride up. If the band is riding up, that’s a sign that it’s too loose. Consider going down a band size.

#4: Gore Lies Flat

If the bra has an underwire, the gore should lie flat between your breasts, flush against your sternum. (On non-wired bras, gore won’t lie completely flat, but it should be close to flush). A gore that hovers over the sternum can be a sign of several things:

  • Cups are too small—if cups are too small, there may not be enough “room” for the gore to get down between your breasts. Try going up a cup size.
  • Band size is too large—if band is too loose, gore may be riding up or simply too loose to conform to your body.
  • Bra is the wrong shape for your body—a lot of gore fit has to do with how close-set your breasts are. See more on this is in the next section, which will advise on choosing bra styles based on your breast shape.

Note that if your sternum is curved inward, your gore may not lie completely flat against your body no matter what you do. This is a condition called pectus excavatum and unless the case is particularly severe, it is generally asymptomatic.

 

#5: Breast Tissue Doesn’t Overflow

There shouldn’t be any breast tissue overflow either over the top or the sides of the cup. Both can be a sign of cup sizes that are too small, or cups that are too close-set for you. The underwire should completely encase the base of your breast, and the cup should be filled but not overflowing. Overflow can also be a sign of the wrong bra design or bra type for your body.

 

#6: Cups Don’t Gap

Cups shouldn’t have any empty space in them or gap at the top, either. If there are any gaps where the cup isn’t filled with breast tissue, the cups could be too big. The bra could also just be the wrong cut for your body; try a different style.

 

9215486964_c2f81382d4_o
This style of bra won’t work on everyone. (The Lingerie Addict/Flickr)

 

Breast Shape

Breast shape is another thing that really affects what bra type is best for you. Two pairs of breasts may have the same volume, but be very different sizes. There are all kinds of breast typing schemas. Most are made by lingerie companies.

However, all of these typing schemes essentially rely on various combinations of two metrics: how wide-set your breasts are, and where most of the breast mass is. You’ll want to consider both of these things when you choose what bra type is right for you.

 

How Wide-Set Are Your Breasts?

We’ve already mentioned the need for the gore to lie flush against the sternum and for underwires to completely encase the base of the breast. For these things to be possible, a bra type has to be compatible with how far apart your breasts are.

  • Close-set breasts: If your breasts are touching or very close to touching, they are close-set. This frequently goes along with a large cup size. It can be hard to find a bra style that doesn’t smush your breasts together and provides enough support. If you can find a full-support bra (with a higher gore) that works for you, great. Otherwise, you may want to go with a plunge bra or balconette bra, since the wires are lower and cups are frequently close-set.
  • Medium-set breasts: If you have a little bit of space between your breasts (about a finger’s width), they are medium-set. In this case, many bra styles could potentially work for you (although anything that compresses to the center too much could give you a bit of a uni-boob). So, you’ll need to more closely consider where most of your breast mass is located.
  • Wide-set breasts: If you can fit 2+ fingers in between your breasts, they are wide-set. Your primary concern will be finding bra types where the cups are set far enough apart. Plunge, balconette, or t-shirt bra cuts can all work well for wide-set breasts, provided the gore is a little on the wide side. Front-clasping bras also often have wider-set cups.

 

Where Is Most of Your Breast Mass?

Breast mass essentially boils down to one thing: what area does most of your breast size come from?

  • Shallow breasts: In the shallow breast, most of the mass and fullness is at the bottom of the breast. There is typically a shallow slope down to the nipple with most of the tissue is concentrated in the lower half of the breast. Cup gapping is a common issue with this breast type. A demi bra or balconette bra style will work well. A padded plunge without too much cup coverage could also work. Avoid full coverage bras.
  • Conical breasts: The conical breast is a little fuller on top than the shallow breast, but somewhat cone shaped overall. Conical breasts are perky and usually on the smaller side proportionally—a C cup or less. Like the shallow breast, you may be prone to gapping, although a wider variety of bra type options may work for you. A padded plunge bra in particular will create some fullness up top and keep you supported all around, but experiment with anything that’s not a full coverage or high-support cut!
  • Round breasts: Round breasts are full all around the breast. This can be natural or surgically obtained. The round breast will fill out a full-coverage bra nicely; many other styles will work, too, although a balconette or demi cut may be too shallow and cause quad-boob. Also, avoid any bra designs with padding or push-up as it will create somewhat unnatural-looking, high-set cleavage.
  • Pendulous breasts: These breasts have become somewhat tubular with time and hang down longer than they are wide. You need something to support and shape the tissue. A full-support or full-coverage bra style is your best bet. You need something with a deep cup, so avoid demi and balconette bra types.
  • Teardrop breasts: The teardrop breast is just slightly fuller on the bottom than the top and is fairly rounded and perky. These breasts will work in pretty much any bra style, so consider what will work best with how wide-set your breasts are.
  • Uneven breasts: Most breasts are somewhat uneven. But if you have about a cup size (or a little more) difference, you may want to try a push-up with removable inserts. Remove on the larger side, leave in on the smaller side!

 

9003329631_79f3009d5e_o
This type of bra cut would work well on a shallow-breasted lady. (The Lingerie Addict/Flickr)

 

Type of Coverage

Once you’ve established what general bra types and and bra styles work for you, you can turn to picking bras for specific occasions. A key thing to consider when choosing a bra to go with a given outfit is how much coverage you need. There are two main aspects to coverage:

 

How Much Nipple Coverage Does the Bra Provide?

This doesn’t so much refer to whether the bra actually covers your nipples but how well-concealed the nipple is through the fabric of your bra and blouse.

Some people are very concerned about having fully concealed nipples at all times, while others are less concerned about it. How much you care about this will definitely affect your choice of bra!

For some fabrics, nipples will be concealed regardless of what bra you’re wearing—think chunky sweaters. For tissue-thin and clingy fabrics, bra choice will make much more of a difference in whether nipples are concealed. This is also less of a concern in general in the heat. It’s much more salient in cold weather!

However, even if you don’t have strong feelings about concealing the shape of your nipples, they should pretty much always be kept fully under wraps for professional and formal occasions (i.e. weddings).

Here’s a list of bra types, sorted into nipple coverage categories. If a bra style from this article is unlisted, that means that its level of coverage depends on the particular bra and its padding level.

 

High coverage

  • Padded bra
  • Push-up bra
  • Full coverage bra
  • Minimizer bra
  • Strapless bra
  • Water bra
  • Bridal corset

Medium coverage

  • Contour cup bra
  • T-shirt bra
  • Lightly lined bra
  • Pasties
  • Stick-on bra
  • U-plunge bra

Low coverage

  • Bralette
  • Leisure bra
  • Training bra
  • Unlined bra

 

13980022727_c516669d33_o
This won’t offer much nipple coverage. (The Lingerie Addict/Flickr)

 

How Much of the Bra Needs to be Covered?

The next part of coverage is how much of the bra itself needs to be covered. If you’re going to a music festival or other event that’s less formal, it’s usually fine if your bra or bra straps show—especially if they bra is cute! However, for professional and formal occasions, you’ll want to make sure all parts of your bra—including the straps—are covered.

Here are some bra styles that are generally designed to be concealed under unusual or revealing clothing cuts:

  • Balconette bra – for scoop or square-neck tops
  • Plunge bra – for low-cut tops
  • Racerback bra – for wear under racerback-cut tops and dresses
  • Pasties – for super-revealing outfits that can’t accommodate a traditional bra
  • Stick-on bra – for backless tops and outfits
  • Convertible bra – can be adjusted for strapless, halter, one-shoulder, etc
  • Low-back bra – for low-back tops and dresses
  • Strapless bra – for strapless tops and dresses
  • U-plunge bra – for very, very low-cut tops

 

7299350310_cb18c9053c_o
This bra’s cute enough to be exposed! (The Lingerie Addict/Flickr)

Activity Level

When you’ve determined fit, breast shape, and the coverage level you need, there’s still one more thing to consider, and that’s your activity level.

If you’re going to be engaged in lots of physical activity—dancing, jumping around, etc—you’ll want a bra with more support.

Obviously if you’re doing dedicated athletic activity, a sports bra is the way to go. But what about a wedding reception with dancing? Will stick-on cups provide enough support in this case? These are the kinds of things to consider in terms of activity level.

And of course, if you’re engaged in a very specific activity, like nursing, you’ll want a bra specific to that activity.

 

Key Points: What You Need to Know About Bra Styles

There is a truly dizzying array of different types of bras available in this world. In this article, we’ve discussed the main parts of the bra and provided a comprehensive list of all different types of bras and what they’re best for.

We also discussed now to pick a bra style for a particular day or occasion. It boils down to four main criteria:

  • Fit: A bra should fit you well well!
  • Breast shape: The bras you wear every day should be the right bra type for your breast shape.
  • Coverage: A bra should offer the appropriate amount of nipple coverage for the occasion (and your comfort level). Your bra should also be compatible with the clothes you are wearing for formal and professional occasions.
  • Activity: Make sure the bra you choose is appropriate for whatever activity level you will be engaged in!